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BMW F30/F80 '12 lexan 1/10 body by "RC Bodies"

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Hi! I'm a part of group of people called "RC bodies" and we're producing bodies and accesories for RC cars. We're small group of enthusiasts which trying to make quality parts which were not availible before.

And now, after some time 3D model of our BMW F30 is ready! We were working on it for a long time, but now it’s ready.
The bodies will be formed on the mold of the German plastic that will ensure excellent quality. 

Dimmentions:

- Wheelbase 257mm
- Height 123mm
- Width 194mm (by fenders)
- The length  429mm


Set includes:
- Body of BMW F30 1mm lexan
- Front bumper BMW F30
- Front and rear bumpers of BMW M3
- Reflectors lexan (light buckets)
- Stickers
- Masks for painting windows
- Door gaps stickers

We've some good experience in making UAZ Patriot body of ABS 2mm and Austrian Lexan 1mm, so quality will be good!

Now we're ready to announce pre-order to earn enough money for buying materials for stickers, masks, boxes and so on.
Price is only 40usd for 1 body + shipping. We accept Paypal payment and can ship worldwide.
Any questions, write me PM:
https://www.facebook.com/Konstantin.RCbodies

Here is also our group on FB: https://www.facebook.com/groups/RC.Bodies/

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Favorite Car Styles & Essential Bodies to Own?

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With temperatures warming up and weather drying out, I was unpacking and making several of the bodies I bought during the winter ready for painting and noticed that I've tended to buy either 4-door sedans (like my Zero Crown) or hatchbacks (like my AE86 Sprinter Trueno). So that made me wonder the following:

  1. Do you have a favorite style of car?
  2. Are there just some cars that are quintessential drift car, i.e., cars that everybody should own?
  3. What's the current "trend" in RC bodies?
To answer those questions for myself:
  1. I'd have to to say I like bigger cars (I'm going to work on a Vellfire later this month) done in a VIP or quasi-VIP style.
  2. The cars I find to be quintessential are the original AE86s, the s-platform Nissans, the Mazda FC3S or FD3S, and the R32/3/4 Skylines.
  3. However, over-fendered cars such as the Rocket Bunnies and LB* lineup are also appealing to me and seem to be the current trend in bodies as the "quintessential" cars are on average 20 years old.
Maybe that's due to my age and too many hours playing NFSU2 on deployment, but what do you folks think?

-Vic

Pandora rc NSX

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Ive been wanting to do this body for quite some time now, but just couldn't find any good builds of it, so i was kinda scared of the quality and mold etc.... but I decided to bite the bullet and give it a try anyhow, and like most Pandora bodies, the lexan isn't the best, but the detail is really on point, as far as body lines molding, grills, door handles etc.  Im really really feeling this build so far. 

body- Pandora rc NSX
Paint - tamiya metallic orange, backed with bright white
Wheels - MST SP1 painted white centers, I also like the RC-ART SP4 wheels as well( titan silver)

still need to do the Rear light lenses... waiting on WUN stuff to come in, waiting for rear diffuser to come in, and also waiting on exhaust tips

any who here are some pics

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What's this called?

RC OMG LP-BM10S Low Profile Digital Servo

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RC OMG speaks digital precision with high speed low profile servos. Previously only available in an anodized central colored bands. The LP-BM10S low profile Servo is a powerful, high speed and precise digital servo. This version of the servo has changed the height of the servo ears for a more standardThe gears are titanium for strength, reliability and longevity. It is operated with a precision brushless motor and improved electronics, of legendary quality. It can be capable for 6.0 to 7.4 volt operation with high speed performance of 0.075 to 0.060 seconds per 60 degrees respectively. The LP-BM10S takes it to a new level of performance for RC Drifting.RC OMG LP-BM10S Low Profile ServoModulation: DigitalRotation: Dual Ball BearingsStall Torque: @6.0V: 9.0 kg-cm (76 oz/in) @7.4V: 11.0 kg-cm (90 oz/in)Speed: @6.0V: 0.075sec/60° @ 7.4V: 0.060sec/60°Weight: 55g (1.59oz)Dimensions: 40.9 x 20 x 28.2 mm (1.58 x 0.80 x 1.47 in)Gear Type: TitaniumMotor Type: BrushlessApproximate MSRP: $88.99USD Source: RC OMG

Posted on Sun, 17 Apr 2016 14:07:10 +0000 at http://driftmission.com/rc-omg-lp-bm10s-...tal-servo/
Comments: http://driftmission.com/rc-omg-lp-bm10s-...o/#respond

Project Locked UP (Fully adjustable caster RWD D4)

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I own a RWD Skaura D4 clone. Boo... Hisss.  Hold on, it aint that bad. Let's cover the basics first as far as the quality of the D4 clones.

Aluminum parts.
The aluminum parts are  decent. The aluminum itself is softer than what you'd find from 3Racing, or major aftermarket companies. It will gouge if you scrape it with hard tools, but it's not terrible. I have not seen any pitting or defects in the aluminum parts. The major problem with the clone aluminum parts is that they are not the same design as the 3racing aluminum parts. 

For example, the bulkheads. The 3Racing aluminum bulkhead looks completely different than the clone. The clone is simply an aluminum version of the stock plastic part. So if you're hoping to buy a different front castor mount and attach it to the front bulkhead cover, think again (it lacks the mounting holes). You'll have to buy the 3Racing bulkhead cover as well as the castor mount. You'll find several parts on the clone where this is the case.

The 12mm wheel hexes suck. They were too big they way they came. I had to sand down all the sides to actually make them fit my sets of wheels. I replaced them with some clamping 12mm hexes in different offsets.

Carbon Fiber parts.
These are actually pretty good. The weave isn't the tightest, but the finish is smooth, and the parts are rigid and strong. I was pleased with the countersunk holes in the main chassis, nice and uniform.


The Hardware
I have not had any problems with the M3 screws. I use Losi hex bit tools, so that may help. I did have a problem with the small screws that secure the bearing holders on the rear axle. The bearing holders that come on the clone are soft aluminum, and when I tightened the screws 1 of the threaded holes stripped out pretty easy. I replaced the bearing holders with the stock plastic units.

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The Bearings
They suck, period. Replace them. I bought a set of Yeah Racing bearings and haven't had any problems. The clones don't have nylon shielding, and some bearings had no shielding at all. Garbage.

These bearing for the spur shaft were bad. Grease filled and very resistant on the motor.
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Everything was so much smoother after replacing the bearings.
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Wheels & Tires
Junk. Replace them. But that was going to be a given whether you buy a clone or not (at least the tires). I bought some multi offset 3Racing wheels and few sets of MST tires.

Plastic Parts
The plastic is actually ok. It's got a similar density as the 3Racing parts. The ball cups I didn't trust, and I replaced them with a set of 3Racing ones. The clones seemed to be too tight or too sloppy.

Shocks & Springs
The springs are junk, throw them away. I purchased a set of every spring 3Racing makes for the D4 (5 or 6 pairs I think). This should be a given for all D4's. You will need spring options. 

The shocks seem so-so. The pistons were slightly too small for the bore, so I replaced them with 3Racing pistons. That made a big difference. There are no o-rings to secure the spring perch, so who knows how often I'll have to adjust the ride height (I adjust that kind thing often anyways). The shocks come dry, so you'll need shock oil. I may replace my shocks with better units down the road. I just don't know how much I trust the clones.

Misc Hardware
This is where you'll find the most issues. Stupid little things like the shock standoffs are soft aluminum and multi piece rather than a solid part. The smaller turnbuckles for the steering and servo have funky non M3 threads. You'll have to mess with a lot of parts, sanding, filing, trimming. 

The clones don't come with roll center shims, so I bought a set. This actually allowed me to stack shims in the rear and give my D4 1mm of anti-squat.


Was the clone a good deal ? Honestly, not really. With the amount of parts you'll want to replace, I don't think buying a clone makes for a good deal. You'd be better off buying a stock D4 and then buying the knock off carbon fiber parts on eBay. You'll never be able to get this many aluminum and CF parts for $180 (what I paid for my clone), so there is that.

Do I regret buying a clone ? Hell no. I love modifying RC cars. I do wonder how much money I would have spent on a stock D4 trying to make it aluminum and CF. Probably too much. The price of the clones teters right on the edge of being worth it or not. I guess that's why they sell at that price, rather than more or less.
¯\_(ツ)_/¯

Next step: looking at steering angle and caster.

Tommy's Corolla Wagon

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Here I was thinking I was going to be unique with a KE70 wagon, but I guess others had the same idea!  =)  Anyway, here's my Yokomo DRB-based Toyota.

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RCDSA is up and running in San Antonio, TX check us out


hello from FRANCE

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my name PASCAL 
i have 46 years old

i have 3 rc drift

- vaterra v100 (body : 2cv+combi+cox+gtr35)

- sakura d4 (body :  gt86)

- salkura d3 ( body : s15 and work in progress semi-truck scania)

for the D3 i work to make rc drift-truck ------------->> D3 6x6 AWD  Devil

project = D3 6x6 AWD

A few recent bodys

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Hey guys been a while since Ive been on the site, thought id share with you a few of my recent work as well as the garage photo booth I built. Everything is a work in progress as I plan to do more to pretty much everything. there is some awesome work on here and its fun to come get some inspiration. Let me know what you think, Thanks!

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RC DRIFT CAR Nissan Silvia s15 VS Police CAR

RC DRIFT CAR Nissan Silvia s15 VS Police CAR

Burnout Demon Twin Turbo Exhaust Smoke Generator

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After 10 months of hard work @ RC Smoker in a little town in Perth, Western Australia. The Burnout Demon was designed and developed for the RC Drift Car market and now it’s finally available to RC Drift Car enthusiasts around the world. The Burnout Demon is not just another Modified E Cigarette smoker. It is designed to do one thing and do it well. That’s to produce a huge amount of smoke just like real Drift Cars. Stay tuned as we will be reviewing this in the coming weeks here on DriftMission.com and one lucky winner will be getting one for free!The Burnout Demon produces so much smoke that you can see it billowing from the wheel arches even in full sunlight.Take total control with the Burnout Demon Smoke Control Unit (SCU). It lets you set the Smoke ON/OFF position at any point in your throttle operation to give you total control. Easy to mount and very light weight at 77 grams. It also works well and won’t upset the balance for RWD Drift cars.The Burnout Demon is compact @ 26H x 26W x 80L mm. This fits easily on any chassis sitting neatly under the body shell. Operating voltage of 7.2 to 8.4 volts so any 7.2V NIMH/NiCad or 2S Lipo Battery will give fantastic Smoke Production. We haven’t forgotten – we all like to match our chassis so we produce them in three colours: Oriental Red, High Gold & Vivid Blue. Kits come two ways with a Plug and Play Adapter to suit the power plugs you use or a DIY solder in power leads.Ok, all that sounds great but what does it cost? Burnout Demon is $79.95 AUD. They are a little more expensive than the other Chinese E Cigarette smoke units on the market but we all know you only get what you pay for. Purchase the best unit that really DOES WORK. Here is the list of what is included with the Burnout Demon.Box includes:1 x Burnout Demon Smoke Generator (Three Colours – Oriental Red, Vivid Blue, High Gold)1 x SCU (Fully adjustable Smoke Control Unit)1 x (Option) Connection adaptor to suit XT60 / Deans / 7.2V Tamiya /4mm Bullet Connector1 x Male to Male Receiver Lead to suit (JR / Hitec / Futaba/Orange/Turnigy)1 x JST 20 AWG Silicone power lead 110mm (Option DIY Supplied)1 x Centre Point Adjustment Screw Driver1 x Burnout Demon Sticker Set1 x Bottle RedX Smoker Fluid1 x Filling 5ml Syringe1 x 25mm x 5mm Heat Shrink (Option DIY Supplied)2 x 200mm Cable ties4 x 50mm Cable ties1 x Full Installation Instruction1 x Two Year Warranty Every unit includes a full two year warranty. Have Fun, Keep It Sideways & Smokin…Source: http://www.rcsmokers.com

Posted on Wed, 20 Apr 2016 02:25:57 +0000 at http://driftmission.com/burnout-demon-tw...generator/
Comments: http://driftmission.com/burnout-demon-tw...r/#respond

Project Run2Drift (W.I.P)

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So, I guess it's about time I do a full write-up on my rig and have a progress thread going. I've spent countless hours going over other people's custom builds across various forums and kind of picked some bits from each that I liked. What I've done may not fit others' driving styles, but feel free to try some of the stuff out. 

My goals for the car when it was stock:
- More speed/power
- CS
- More steering angle
- better weight distribution

I was originally gonna do a front motor swap, but decided against it, because I didn't want to try to re-engineer my steering under the motor mount. T will probably do front motor on my second S2. 

For more speed, I went with a Novak Drift-spec Brushless motor and ESC, as well as a 27t pinion and 84t spur. I haven't messed with the gearing since going CS. 

For more steering angle, I originally shaved the stock C-hubs, but it wasn't enough. Ended up cutting the top and side part off and just using the bottom plate. To support the top of the knuckles without the full C-hub, I used a set of servo mounts as upper arms. After this, my issue was that the shocks were in the way. I was going to do the traxxas 2wd lower arm swap, but I didn't feel comfortable with the knuckles being held by just a turnbuckle. My solution was to use an IFS kit off an MST FXX to make a monoshock system. With the shocks now out of the way, there's plenty of room, but my angle was still limited by the arms on the wheel knuckle, where the steering linkages connect. I used a set of R31 RWD front knuckles. They don't have a seat for an inner bearing, but Sakura D3 Ultra Wide Angle CVDs sit in here nicely with no binding. With this done, I can max out my angle to the point where the steering arm on the knuckles bumps against my front CVDs. As a bonus, the R31 knuckles make the wheels sit out a tad farther, giving them a bit more clearance and travel. To clean up the slop in the steering rack, I used the posts from an RS4 steering kit and Sprint 2 aluminum arms. Also, I threw in a Savox 1258 metal gear servo.

CSing was pretty straightforward. 12t pulley up front with a 39t swapped onto the front one-way diff. Currently, I'm running a 16t rear pulley while I wait for a bigger belt. Then I'll go 18t rear and eventually 20t as I get used to it. 

For better weight distribution, I started with some weights in the front bumper. Then I moved my receiver forward on the upper deck so it sits right above my servo. Stuck my esc behind the servo and ran my battery front to back on the opposite side. This makes one side weigh a small amount more, but it is still very centralized and balances the weight to the front more. 

I'll upload pics of each bit later today or tomorrow. Here's one overhead shot I've got on hand. Here, you can see the new electronics layout, monoshock, and max lock. 
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As far as future mods, I have matching R31 rear hubs coming, another MST FXXIFS kit to run a link between the rear shocks, and a couple fresh sets of tires.

Getting started

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Hello!

I am complete new to RC cars but I have theoretical knowledge on 1:1 cars.

I have a stock TA06 with a 10.5T Hobbywing Quickrun brushless motor, a tornado servo that doesn't fit and a brushed hobby wing esc that is incompatible with my motor...

So, what mods do I need to get my car to drift and what would you guys recommend for electronics? (and maybe a judgement on what I have)
Any suggestions?
Thanks!

Electronic Parts for Beginner?

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I'm new to the RC world and I would like to build one from ground up.  I bought the Sakuru D4 AWD chassis but I'm totally lost in electronic parts. (not too good with electronic)  I've been reading this forum and others and know the basic of it but when I'm getting different brands and stuff, just not sure will they all link together....Anyone can guide me through the electronic parts?

Yokomo YD-4 Unboxing and Initial Impressions

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Yokomo YD-4 Unboxing and Initial Impressions

A look Yokomo's most recent drift chassis, part 1.

I purchased a Yokomo YD-4 chassis kit on Tuesday from my local RC drift shop, Kong RC Drift in Lynnwood, WA. The owner received a shipment of them earlier in the year, but since I've been busy with my DIB275 and FR-D, I've held off on purchasing one. Now that both of those chassis are either running or almost running, I thought I would purchase a YD-4 and take a close look at Yokomo's latest drift chassis.

Pictures (click for full size):

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Box - The "EURO SPEC" sticker refers to the inclusion of the Rear FCD x1.5 axle. The JDM spec model has a Rear FCD x1.3 axle instead.


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Bag no. 1 (Front) - Shocks, suspension mounts, and wheel hexes. These parts are injection model fiber(?)-reinforced plastic from what I can tell. I was hoping that they were aluminum at this price point.


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Bag no. 1 (Rear) - The damper bodies are also molded in plastic. I probably will swap these out for some BD7 dampers as I prefer aluminum dampers.


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Bag No. 5 (Front) - Contains axles, bearings, carbon upper deck, gears, and drive shafts.


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Bag No. 5 (Rear) -


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Bag No. 10 (Front) - Bearings, servo saver, shock towers, steering knuckles, suspension arms, suspension pins, and tools.


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Bag No. 10 (Rear) -


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Bag no. 13 - Rear diffuser.

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1.5x Countersteer Rear Axle Bag (Front) -


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1.5x Countersteer Rear Axle Bag (Rear) -


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Carbon Fiber Chassis Plate (Rear to the Right) - 


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Bumper, Antenna, and Shock Oil (350 and 450) - I won'd be using the antenna tube as my Futaba receiver uses an internal antenna.


Thoughts:

My initial opinion is that Yokomo released a product that fits its pricepoint. I would have liked to see aluminum suspension blocks and dampers, but comparing this with a DPR that has those features included increases the price by a couple hundred dollars. The chassis is designed for CS and the front suspension arms have reverted to the H-arm style from the Type-C's Y-arms. This will mean that converting it to RWD will be a bit more difficult than a Type-C due to additional parts being required, but I've seen it done.

What I want to do next is unbag all the parts to examine them so I can determine aftermarket or replacement part compatibility. From what I've seen of the chassis in person, read on Yokomo's product page, and found in the manual, there seems to be several "donor" designs that provided parts and ideas for the YD-4.

If there's anything in particular you want to know about this chassis or have me look at, please let me know.

-Vic

My d4

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Bought this a few weeks ago and here is how it sits so far. Most parts I got from chuck over at drift lab circuit and still waiting on a bit more. Up front is the usukani front bulk head, upper and lower arms, 3racing slide rack. Mst servo saver, and in the rear 3racing rear camber mixing link. Still waiting on knuckles, springs and a few other suspension upgrades. For electronics I'm running the speed passion reventon 10.5 brushless motor and esc. Hpi dbox2 and a spektrum dx4c for now until I can get my mt4s controller

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Here is Practical Explanation about Next Life, Purpose of Human Life,

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Practical Explanation ( For Example ) :- `1st of all can you tell me every single seconds detail from that time when you born ?? ( i need every seconds detail ?? that what- what you have thought and done on every single second )

can you tell me every single detail of your `1 cheapest Minute Or your whole hour, day, week, month, year or your whole life ??

if you are not able to tell me about this life then what proof do you have that you didn't forget your past ? and that you will not forget this present life in the future ?

that is Fact that Supreme Lord Krishna exists but we posses no such intelligence to understand him.
there is also next life. and i already proved you that no scientist, no politician, no so-called intelligent man in this world is able to understand this Truth. cuz they are imagining. and you cannot imagine what is god, who is god, what is after life etc.
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for example :Your father existed before your birth. you cannot say that before your birth your father don,t exists.

So you have to ask from mother, "Who is my father?" And if she says, "This gentleman is your father," then it is all right. It is easy.
Otherwise, if you makes research, "Who is my father?" go on searching for life; you'll never find your father.

( now maybe...maybe you will say that i will search my father from D.N.A, or i will prove it by photo's, or many other thing's which i will get from my mother and prove it that who is my Real father.{ So you have to believe the authority. who is that authority ? she is your mother. you cannot claim of any photo's, D.N.A or many other things without authority ( or ur mother ).

if you will show D.N.A, photo's, and many other proofs from other women then your mother. then what is use of those proofs ??} )

same you have to follow real authority. "Whatever You have spoken, I accept it," Then there is no difficulty. And You are accepted by Devala, Narada, Vyasa, and You are speaking Yourself, and later on, all the acaryas have accepted. Then I'll follow.
I'll have to follow great personalities. The same reason mother says, this gentleman is my father. That's all. Finish business. Where is the necessity of making research? All authorities accept Krsna, the Supreme Personality of Godhead. You accept it; then your searching after God is finished.

Why should you waste your time?
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all that is you need is to hear from authority ( same like mother ). and i heard this truth from authority " Srila Prabhupada " he is my spiritual master.
im not talking these all things from my own.
___________

in this world no `1 can be Peace full. this is all along Fact.

cuz we all are suffering in this world 4 Problems which are Disease, Old age, Death, and Birth after Birth.

tell me are you really happy ?? you can,t be happy if you will ignore these 4 main problem. then still you will be Forced by Nature.
___________________

if you really want to be happy then follow these 6 Things which are No illicit sex, No gambling, No drugs ( No tea & coffee ), No meat-eating ( No onion & garlic's )

5th thing is whatever you eat `1st offer it to Supreme Lord Krishna. ( if you know it what is Guru parama-para then offer them food not direct Supreme Lord Krishna )

and 6th " Main Thing " is you have to Chant " hare krishna hare krishna krishna krishna hare hare hare rama hare rama rama rama hare hare ".
_______________________________
If your not able to follow these 4 things no illicit sex, no gambling, no drugs, no meat-eating then don,t worry but chanting of this holy name ( Hare Krishna Maha-Mantra ) is very-very and very important.

Chant " hare krishna hare krishna krishna krishna hare hare hare rama hare rama rama rama hare hare " and be happy.

if you still don,t believe on me then chant any other name for 5 Min's and chant this holy name for 5 Min's and you will see effect. i promise you it works And chanting at least 16 rounds ( each round of 108 beads ) of the Hare Krishna maha-mantra daily.
____________
Here is no Question of Holy Books quotes, Personal Experiences, Faith or Belief. i accept that Sometimes Faith is also Blind. Here is already Practical explanation which already proved that every`1 else in this world is nothing more then Busy Foolish and totally idiot.
_________________________
Source(s):
every `1 is already Blind in this world and if you will follow another Blind then you both will fall in hole. so try to follow that person who have Spiritual Eyes who can Guide you on Actual Right Path. ( my Authority & Guide is my Spiritual Master " Srila Prabhupada " )
_____________
if you want to see Actual Purpose of human life then see this link : ( http://www.asitis.com {Bookmark it })
read it complete. ( i promise only readers of this book that they { he/she } will get every single answer which they want to know about why im in this material world, who im, what will happen after this life, what is best thing which will make Human Life Perfect, and what is perfection of Human Life. ) purpose of human life is not to live like animal cuz every`1 at present time doing 4 thing which are sleeping, eating, sex & fear. purpose of human life is to become freed from Birth after birth, Old Age, Disease, and Death.
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