I just wanted to share my settings and guide how I set it up.
Epoxy/cement surface
Camber angle.
I have always adjusted this based on 45 degree angle turn of leading wheel. Camber adjusted to 0 degrees. This is adjusted with battery and body shell.
Rear camber:
I've gone for active camber. It is set to -1 degree. Camber will adjust according to body roll.
Kpi / caster
I run maximum kpi my knuckles allow. Caster is also at maximum allowable. Effects: higher kpi makes car slower but more controllable in corners. If car is too slow during a corner reduce kpi settings. Caster is the cars rolling ability.
Toe settings / ride height spring settings
My front ride height changes according to acceleration and deceleration. Nuetral to slight Toe in during acceleration and toe out during braking and low speeds.
Ride height is adjusted with body shell and battery. 5mm at lowest height in front and back. Springs are 31 mm springs. Due to my setup my springs are softer in front and harder in the rear. This is to accommodate the heavier rear.
Damper settings.
My damper location is the closest hole to the chassis in front. Rear damper location is also closest to chassis. However I do not use standard holes that come with the lower arms in the rear. My dampers sit almost upright.
Effects: I chose this because I wanted more shift from side to side. Chassis continues to be angled during a corner. I've got test this again in more detail. However I feel this help the car to come out faster of a corner. This setting may cause the car to have less reaction
Damper oil.
For many months I was using mixture of oils. I was running an average of 50cst to 100 cst.
This makes the car actually looser. Depending on the surface of the track whether it's bumpy or not will determine what oil to use.
On uneven epoxy, I use 300 -400 CST oil. I find that it helps to grip more. If you don't want so much grip or on a smoother surface you can reduce the thickness of the oil.
FDR
I run at 6.9 FDR.
Effects : I run at this due to the lower wheel spin. It takes a longer time to hit top speed, your acceleration is lower. Lower acceleration is more controllable wheel spin. Less wheel spin is a faster car.
Also the other reason I can run the car for 2 hours without battery change which is great.
Radio EPA/ dual rate
I run my EPA anywhere from 55℅ th to 85℅ depending of the factors of cars around me. Faster cars I use a lower EPA setting and slower cars a higher EPA setting.
Dual rate, I cap the max throttle at 90℅. The car cannot go more then 90℅. So my actual car speed is lower with EPA and dual rate combination.
Curve settings.
None. Mine is linear.
Will update more later. I will post pics later of what I mean.
Sent from my Lenovo P1a42 using Tapatalk
Epoxy/cement surface
Camber angle.
I have always adjusted this based on 45 degree angle turn of leading wheel. Camber adjusted to 0 degrees. This is adjusted with battery and body shell.
Rear camber:
I've gone for active camber. It is set to -1 degree. Camber will adjust according to body roll.
Kpi / caster
I run maximum kpi my knuckles allow. Caster is also at maximum allowable. Effects: higher kpi makes car slower but more controllable in corners. If car is too slow during a corner reduce kpi settings. Caster is the cars rolling ability.
Toe settings / ride height spring settings
My front ride height changes according to acceleration and deceleration. Nuetral to slight Toe in during acceleration and toe out during braking and low speeds.
Ride height is adjusted with body shell and battery. 5mm at lowest height in front and back. Springs are 31 mm springs. Due to my setup my springs are softer in front and harder in the rear. This is to accommodate the heavier rear.
Damper settings.
My damper location is the closest hole to the chassis in front. Rear damper location is also closest to chassis. However I do not use standard holes that come with the lower arms in the rear. My dampers sit almost upright.
Effects: I chose this because I wanted more shift from side to side. Chassis continues to be angled during a corner. I've got test this again in more detail. However I feel this help the car to come out faster of a corner. This setting may cause the car to have less reaction
Damper oil.
For many months I was using mixture of oils. I was running an average of 50cst to 100 cst.
This makes the car actually looser. Depending on the surface of the track whether it's bumpy or not will determine what oil to use.
On uneven epoxy, I use 300 -400 CST oil. I find that it helps to grip more. If you don't want so much grip or on a smoother surface you can reduce the thickness of the oil.
FDR
I run at 6.9 FDR.
Effects : I run at this due to the lower wheel spin. It takes a longer time to hit top speed, your acceleration is lower. Lower acceleration is more controllable wheel spin. Less wheel spin is a faster car.
Also the other reason I can run the car for 2 hours without battery change which is great.
Radio EPA/ dual rate
I run my EPA anywhere from 55℅ th to 85℅ depending of the factors of cars around me. Faster cars I use a lower EPA setting and slower cars a higher EPA setting.
Dual rate, I cap the max throttle at 90℅. The car cannot go more then 90℅. So my actual car speed is lower with EPA and dual rate combination.
Curve settings.
None. Mine is linear.
Will update more later. I will post pics later of what I mean.
Sent from my Lenovo P1a42 using Tapatalk